July 08, 2011

Turkey : Reminiscences

Turkey has always held a special significance for me. In Hyderabad State where I was born and raised, Muslims were called in Telegu, the local language “Turkullu”, meaning the people of Turkey. Their language (Urdu) was called “Turka Matta”, meaning the language of the Turks. The very word Urdu means army or troops in Turkish.

So, I was thrilled to learn half a century back that I had been selected for a posting to that country. The 3-½ years that I spent in that land was a continuous treat for me. Let me share with you here some of the early memories of my sojourn in that fascinating land.

I had done some reading on the country before proceeding there. Some Western writers had advised: “When in Turkey deal only with the Turks; they are thoroughly trustworthy.” That struck me as strange considering the repeated mention of Tzar’s epithet labeling Turkey as “the sick man of Europe”, or some British writers calling the people “the terrible Turks”. Carlyle had referred to them as “the unspeakable Turks”.

I had landed in Ankara with vague notions about the country and its people. The very first encounter revealed how biased the above-mentioned views were.

It was winter and the streets were covered with snow. I was driving on the main street of Ankara when a Mercedes car emerged from a side street, skidded and hit my car. Soon, a traffic policeman arrived on the scene and started preparing a report. The young driver of the other car, who sported expensive clothes, kept talking to the policeman incessantly. I had not till then acquired even a smattering of the language. Noticing the diplomatic plate on my car, the policeman wanted my consent to go to a court of law. I agreed, as I did not wish to miss the experience. We were taken first to the police station where I was given a copy of the police report, which being in Turkish gave me no clue as to its contents, and then taken to the court. The magistrate kept questioning the young man; he just saw my papers. Within minutes, he gave me a copy of his verdict: the insurance company of the young man should bear the expenses on the repairs to my car. The accident had taken place around 10 am and I had the court decision by 2 p.m. I marveled at the efficiency and at the absence of any chauvinism in the court of law. The smart young man’s glib talk availed him nothing.

The next day when I contacted the insurance company, I was informed that the insurance had been taken out six hours after the accident and the company was not therefore responsible. The insurance company, nevertheless, advised me to get the car repaired and assured that I would get the amount reimbursed, and that they would themselves file a case of fraud against their client. A few weeks later I received a call from the court to testify in the case. I was asked to bring my translator, which I did. A very severe fine and punishment was imposed on the smart aleck. I received a check in the amount I had spent. My Turkish colleagues kept assuring me that I had run into an unusual Turk. Much later, some one ran into that young fellow and learned that he belonged to a minority community.

A few months later, while buying some pulses from a shop I felt that the teenage shopkeeper had not properly weighed the items. I asked him whether he was a Muslim and a Turk. He said, “Yes.” Another customer who was standing beside me asked me: “Why are you asking him that?” “Because”, I said, “I had read in books that Turks were the most trustworthy people in the country. And, I had a feeling that the boy was not being honest.” The man asked the boy where his father was. Presently the father appeared on the scene. He was informed of the situation. He weighed all three items that I had bought. Two were short of the required weight. The man picked up a cane and started beating the boy saying all the time: “You are a Muslim and a Turk; how dare you cheat. Is that what I have taught you?”

Some time later, I bought from a very poor street vendor, who was in patched trousers and a crumbled coat, some items of daily use and gave him a large bill but forgot to take the change. As I reached the car parked at some distance from there, I noticed the old man rushing towards me to hand me over the change. “It is inconceivable for us, the Turks, to pocket the change, or cheat anyone”, he assured me.

During the entire period of my stay in that country, incident after incident confirmed the veracity of this statement.

Osman, the founder of the Ottoman empire, had said in his will: “…You fight to protect the great religion of Islam …Whoever of my descendants swerves from honesty and justice will be deprived of the blessings of Prophet Muhammad”. Throughout their 624-year rule (1299-1923), and covering almost the entire civilized world of that time during Suleyman the Magnificent’s rule (1520-66), the Turkish rulers and the people had adhered, with few exceptions, to the precepts of Osman. A Turk is even today honest, just and a man of his word. And, he is next to none is respect of courage and chivalry.

The Turks have a special affection for Pakistanis whom they prefer to call “Arkadash” (relatives) as against “Kardesh” (friend) – a term they use for even their allies in NATO. They believed for centuries in the concept of Muslim Umma; the emergence of narrow nationalism is of recent origin.

Turkism versus Islamism continues to be a leitmotif, a recurrent theme, of Turkish politics, ever since the decisive turn to Turkism by the Young Turks at the end of the nineteenth century and its development by Ataturk, the great Turkish reformer.

Istanbul (Constantinople) the first city of Byzantine, Roman and Ottoman empires, adorned by the best works of art and architecture of all three empires, was severely affected a few years back by an enormous temblor. Fortunately, the most outstanding architectural monuments, St. Sophia museum, Top Kapi palace and museum, Suleymaniya and the Blue Mosques - escaped damage. This speaks volumes for the genius of the Turkish architects. Master architect Sinan ((1491-1588) had built 41 large mosques, 32 palaces, 55 schools mainly in Istanbul alone. The Turks bore the great tragedy with fortitude and an uncanny confidence in their ability to rebuild the areas destroyed. A subsequent visit to that country confirmed the resilience of the people. No one even mentioned to me the havoc caused by the earthquake.

Istanbul symbolizes the basic problem of the Turks that continues to haunt them even today. Sitting at the meeting point of Asia and Europe, it has always faced the dilemma of adopting the norms of either of the two cultures. The success of the Ottoman leadership, the Sultans in particular, lay in the exercise of choice solely in the interest of the Umma. They retained the heavy Islamic complexion of their society while acquiring the talents and inventions of Europe. Sinan was, for instance, a Christian from Europe who became a Muslim on induction into the elitist Janissary corps.

The earthquake, perhaps the biggest of the 20 th century, leveled the modern day conflict between Islamism and Turkism. The entire nation rallied to overcome the tragedy and it did, reflecting the true mettle of the Turks.

During the entire period of my stay there, I found a Pakistani receiving more affection and respect than perhaps in his own land. A few years back, on a revisit, I was informed by several Pakistani nationals that hordes of our countrymen try to reach Greece and other European countries via Turkey, and many get killed at the borders trying to cross illegally. That has given Pakistanis a bad name.

Nevertheless, the Turks continue to be sympathetic and reliable friends of Pakistan. And, I cherish the memories of my stay there. (Arif Hussaini 714-345 2654)