‘The Jewel in the Crown’
By H. Maker
The Helpline Trust
Karachi, Pakistan


Saturday, 8 October was the inauguration ceremony of Jewel in the Crown: Karachi under the Raj 1843-1947 at the Mohatta Palace Museum. It was reported: “The exhibition is a marvelous and a rare opportunity for the Karachites to see those golden days of history, when Karachi had emerged, from a fishing village to the commercial capital and the city of lights of Pakistan”.

The rich and the famous had graciously and generously provided precious jewels from their private collections for the exhibition and our PM was there to honor the city and for the inauguration. But unfortunately, much to their discomfort the commuters once again had to suffer traffic jams as is the case when the President or the PM visit the city.

Sir Charles Napier had paid this tribute to Karachi: “You will yet be the glory of the East; would that I could come again, Karachi, to see you in your grandeur.” It is just as well that the time machine has not yet been invented, because if Sir Charles were to visit the city today, he would be terribly disappointed and disgusted to see what we have done to his jewel.

Neglect, incompetence, greed, pollution and violence have ravaged this once noble and proud city and turned her into a city of slums. Her proud heritage has been auctioned to the highest bidder and her gracious and graceful buildings have been turned into death traps of illegal, glittering towers of glass and steel.

Sheema Kirmani had written a play, Is Sher Ko Yahen Se Dheko – See This City From This Side. Perhaps our city fathers should ask the citizens, over 50%, who live in the kutchi abbadis of Karachi, as to how they see and feel about their jewel in the crown, which they call home. I am sure the answer would be alarming and perhaps even shock them.

The citizens of this jewel have been treated with scorn and contempt and have been denied the basic civic amenities of life. A crown under which we have hospitals that do not heal, schools that do not teach, food and medicines that are adulterated or substandard and yet expensive, law enforcing agencies that harass and shake the citizens down on a regular basis and a life, which is a daily struggle just to survive.

The President, PM, Governor and Chief Minister should see this jewel from its uncut and rough side, as suggested by Sheema and take a ride in one of Maulana Eidi’s ambulances or a mini bus and experience the crowded, hot, dusty, bumpy, sweaty and dangerous journey through noisy, congested, smoke polluted streets and see how the ordinary citizens live and go through every day.

And to crown it all, we are also informed that the Karachi Port Trust is adding another jewel to the crown and taking us to new heights by building the Port Tower Complex, which will be amongst the ten tallest building in the world at a cost of 10 billion rupees.

What more can a common man ask for? So what if he does not have clean water in his taps, proper education and health care, or is jobless and goes hungry or is poisoned by substandard and adulterated food and medicines, has sleepless nights due to power failures, gets thrown into jail because he refuses to pay a bribe, or is trampled under the wheels of a speeding bus, or gets blown up or shot dead because of his religious beliefs?

So what if there is no accountability or the enforcement of the rule of law and our Constitution and the National Assembly are irrelevant? We can still hold up our head in pride and scream at the world: WE ARE A NUCLEAR POWER AND HAVE ONE OF THE 10 TALLEST BUILDINGS IN THE WORLD!

They say, “Heavy is the head that wears the crown”, especially if it has so many jewels in them. I wonder if the 150 million multiplying citizens of Pakistan share the glory and the splendor of our jewels in the crown?

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Editor: Akhtar M. Faruqui
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