Karachi , the Resilient City
By Dr. Syed Amir
Bethesda , MD
Mere mention of my intention to visit Karachi in social gatherings in early December evoked incredulous glances and comments -- the city is unsafe, terrorism is rampant and it is not the opportune time to visit. Some of my friends remarked that, in view of the poor law-and-order situation, they had cancelled their own long-planned trips to attend weddings of some close family member. In my case, however, the need was urgent.
My older sister had been ill for some time and the way life is I could not be certain that I had an indefinite amount of time to make the trip. The situation in Pakistan, I reasoned, was unlikely to improve significantly any time soon, and for me the time to travel was now.
The choice of airlines serving Karachi is very limited, especially as I intended to break the journey on the way to get some rest and relaxation. I chose Turkish Airlines enabling me to stop at Istanbul , the storied capital of the Ottoman Empire . The city historically evokes fond and nostalgic memories among the South Asian Muslims, having served as the seat of Caliphate for nearly five-hundred years. I plan to write separately about my visit to this city which attracts thousands of tourists every year.
My flight onward from Istanbul arrived in Karachi at 2:30 in the morning, a most inconvenient time for any relative or friend who wished to meet a traveler at the airport. There are no waiting lounges for arriving passengers where they could hang around until dawn. And all my pleading with my nephew not to come to the airport until the morning light were in vain. He with his driver was there waiting even before the plane landed.
Approaching from the west, as the plane glided over the Karachi suburbs, the city seemed so peaceful and serene, with thousand of glistening lights making a spectacular view from above. It was hard to imagine that some many evil forces could be tormenting this city and its innocent citizens. The passport and visa control checks, once dreaded ordeals, went smoothly as there were no long lines. It was significant, I noticed, that there were hardly any recognizable foreign faces among the arriving passengers. Outside the airport, there was a big crowd of returning Hajis being greeted by a throng of jubilant relatives and friends, carrying garlands and bouquets of flowers. The vociferous welcome did add some excitement and gaiety to an otherwise sleepy airport in the early morning hours.
Karachi never really sleeps and even at this early hour while being driven home, I noticed that commercial activity had already started, with pickups trucks carrying goods and supplies on their way to the markets. Having rested in Istanbul for three days, I felt fairly refreshed. I have a fairly large extended family living in Karachi and during my two-week stay I was able to spend time with my ailing sister and in visiting other relations.
The population of Karachi has been variously estimated to be anywhere between fifteen and twenty million and, contrary to my reservations, the city life seemed to go on unperturbed by the fear of terrorism or violence. The restaurants and shopping malls are doing a brisk business and the city roads are crowded with cars, buses and rickshaws that usually ignore traffic lights and follow their own rules and regulations.
In 1961, at the peak of President Ayub's presidency, American ambassador to India , John Galbraith , visited Karachi and recorded in his Journal as follows: " Karachi living standard is well above Delhi . The refugee hutments seem virtually to have disappeared, the streets are clean, the pavements are improved and of the wall-to-wall type. Even the camels and camel drivers look sprucer and better". That was then; the present- day Karachi gives a ramshackle look, broken or absent pavements with historic, colonial-style buildings decaying and badly in need of refurbishment. Especially in need of attention are areas in and around Saddar, the Old Chief Court and Sindh Assembly buildings and other structures dating back to the British rule. Unless, an effort is mounted to save them, a piece of Karachi history will be lost forever. I was pleased the find that the Karachi Arts Council had resurged from the dark days of Zia regime when all forms of art and culture were frowned upon. In early December, it hosted the Third International Urdu Conference, which brought together a galaxy prominent writers, poets, and intellectuals. Outside, a number of publishers had on display the latest Urdu publications available at discounted prices.
While the city currently enjoys a period of tranquility, ethnic and religious tensions remain just below the surface. Religious leaders of various stripe and ethnic politicians constantly fan the flames of intolerance and promote polarization. A leader of a religious party recently offered a huge monetary reward to anyone who would kill Asia Bibi, the Christian woman charged with blasphemy but convicted of nothing. The infamous law has become a tool to torment minorities and others, who are accused of committing the crime by those with personal grievances. While its misuse is widely recognized, political leaders don't have the will or the courage to modify or rescind it. Politicians often behave irresponsibly. The home minister of Sindh, whose job it is to promote communal and interethnic harmony, issued a highly inflammatory and unfortunate statement during the Moharrum commemorations, designed to polarize various ethnic groups in the city and cause strife.
The city, along with the country, has become more conservative and for many people religion has become the sole dominant force in their lives, providing a raison d'être. While an enhanced religious commitment is to be admired, it has not translated into an improved public morality or discernable integrity in personal conduct. Opposition to America and its policies is ubiquitous and common. Ironically, the most vehement opponents are often those whose children have settled in the US or Canada . During my visit, the news media was saturated with the discussion of Wiki leak revelations and the dominant role the army played behind the scene in running the country. There were embarrassing disclosures that Saudi Arabia and Gulf States had been urging the US to strike at Iran with greater insistence than even Israel .
Pakistan 's weak civilian Government is currently under attack from several directions -- India, Iran and US -- for failings beyond its ability to correct. Religious extremists organize and meticulously execute terrorist acts within and beyond the country's borders, and the nation is left to deal with the consequences. As I left Karachi, the morning of Ashura was unfolding and the city was holding its collective breath, worrying whether the tragedy of last Ashura would be replayed. Mercifully, the day passed without incident.
As the Turkish Airline's jumbo jet lifted up in the early morning darkness, I said a silent prayer for the safety and survival of the country and city where many of my close relations still live and to which I personally owe much.
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